THE PORT WINE WE KNOW TODAY happened
slowly. We did not always have the many styles and qualities that we enjoy
today. The single biggest development in the advancement Port is the glass
bottle. It is the bottle that make vintage Port possible.
Port is one of the most regulated wines made today. The production area
was also the first to be so demarcated in 1756. Vineyards are graded by
the Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP) according and classified into six
different categories labeled "A" through "F". There are twelve different
physical factors taken into consideration including productivity (the
lower the yield, the higher the mark), gradient, aspect, soil, exposure,
and vine varieties. Each factor is given a numerical value which is then
tallied up. A score of more than 1200 points out of a maximum 1680 points
is given an "A". Vineyards scoring less than 200 points are given an "F".
As only a certain amount of wine is allowed to be made into Port in any
given year, growers are allowed to make a certain amount of Port from
their particular vineyards based on the grade they receive. A vineyard
with an "A" grade are allowed to make up to 600 liters of Port per 1000
vines. Those with a grade of "F" generally have to pass on the Port
market. Surplus grapes are usually made into table wine.
There are over 90 different varieties of grape permitted to be grown in
the Port wine region. Of these, about 30 different varieties can be found
there, but only 5 are considered to be of exceptional quality. These are
Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão, and Touriga
Francesa. White Port, is made from white grapes rather than the
aforementioned red grapes — Viosinho, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Cédega, and
Rabigato.
The Touriga Nacional grape is said to be without a doubt, the best
grape for making Port. It is not however, the most widely planted variety.
It is a vigorous and robust vine, but produces about half the yield as the
other grape varieties. This grape gives Port its deep color and longevity.
There are many styles of Port, but two broad categories define Port –
bottle aged or cask aged. The two processes produce distinctly different
wines. Bottle aged Ports keep their color and generally their fruitiness
into their maturity They are aged for a short time in wood and are bottled
without filtration where they are meant to mature. Cask aged Ports lose
much of their and become tawny in color. These are aged in wood and
then filtered and bottled. They are ready to drink right away.
Tawny is aged a few years longer than ruby – at least six years
– in the cask before it is bottled. Though some tawny is simply a mixture
of ruby and white ports, the best tawny Ports have acquired their pale
color – an amber brown or tawny hue – from longer wood ageing. The flavor
becomes drier and nuttier from the oxidation.
Vintage
Character Ports might also be referred to as Super or Premium Ruby. It
is a blend that has been aged from four to six years before it is filtered
and bottled. They characteristically have more body and fruit than a tawny
but they lack the concentration and complexity of a true vintage Port.
These are usually marketed under brand names like Sandeman's Founders
Reserve, Warre's Warrior, Graham's 6 Grapes, Fonseca's
Bin 27, and Taylor's First Estate.
Aged Tawny are the best tawny Ports. They give the average age
of the wines that have gone into making the blends. They are available in
10, 20, 30 and 40 year versions with a corresponding increase in price. A
20-year tawny may give you the most enjoyable experience for the price.
Aged tawnies are made from high quality wines and are the byproduct of a
master blender.
Ruby is the most basic and least expensive style of Port. It is
a blend from the produce of several harvests, that spends two to three
years in stainless steel or wood before it is bottled. You usually will
not see the term Ruby on the label as most shippers prefer to use a
house brand.
Vintage Port if the finest and most
expensive of the Port styles. At most, it accounts for about 2% of all
production and is one of the most sought after wines in the world. Vintage
Port comes from a single harvest of exceptional quality, as stated on the
bottle, and is bottled after two to three years of cask ageing. The wine
then spends many years maturing in the bottle. It may take 15 to 50 years
for a good Vintage Port to be ready for drinking. Each shipper must
decided within two years of a harvest year if that particular year will be
of enough quality to be released as a Vintage Port. This is known as
"declaring the vintage". The first vintages were declared around 1734. The
best vintages from this century include 1994. 1992, 1991, 1985, 1977,
1970, 1963, 1955, 1948, 1945, 1935, 1931, 1927, and 1912. These wines must
be decanted before serving. This is not as difficult as it may sound. See
the section on Serving and Storing Port . White
Ports range from very dry to very sweet. The sweetest is designated as
Lagrima. These are served straight up or on the rocks, most often
as an apéeritif.
Colheita is a tawny but from a single vintage. It might
be though of as a vintage tawny. It must receive a minimum of seven years
in wood, but most are aged much longer. Also the wine should indicate the
year of bottling and should be drunk within a year of that date. This is
the rarest of all Port. Their production, a specialty of the Portuguese
Port houses, amounts to less than 0.5% of all Port
made. Crusted Port is named for the crust of
sediment it forms in the bottle. It is a blend of port from several
vintages that is bottled after three years in cask.
Single-Quinta Ports are made in both tawny and vintage styles
but with the distinction that they come from only one vineyard.
They are generally produced in years that are not declared. In declared
years, their grapes often form the backbone of the Vintage Port
blends.
Late Bottled Vintage or LBV, unlike
Vintage Character, are actually the produce of a single vintage. A vintage
not deemed good enough to make a Vintage Port, will go into the making of
a LBV. It is left in wood for four to six years, then fined and filtered
before bottling. It is ready to drink earlier than Vintage Port and they
do throw little sediment in the bottle.
|